Monday, October 31, 2016 – Temple 77 (Doryuji), Temple 78 (Goshoji), Temple 79 (Tennoji), Temple 80 (Kokubunji) & Temple 81 (Shiro-mineji)

Hard to believe we are now doing the temples in the 80’s. The plan is to do Temple 88 on Thursday. I write this blog with mixed emotions.

The day started with a wonderful morning prayer service at Zentsuji Temple 75 (Kobo Daishi’s birthplace) followed by breakfast. It is a huge temple. After the morning service we got to tour the basement shrine in darkness.

After breakfast we headed for the Zentsuji train station and took the train close to Temple 77. On the walk to Temple 77, a nice couple and their son stopped us and gave us osettai of a small ohenro statue.

I received one from them on my last two pilgrimages. I am always amazed at all the bicycles at the train station, as many school kids bike to train station and then take train to school.

Here is a picture of Temple 77.

On the way to Temple 78, we passed a local mochi shop, so thought I would support the local business and brought a couple mochi sweets for later with tea.

Here are photos of Temple 79.

Here are photos of Temple 80.

Temple 80 had a footprint statue I took for Andre.

On the climb up to Temple 81 we got a nice view of Sakaide City.

At Temple 81 the Japanese maple trees were starting to change colors.

Here are the rest of my pictures from Temple 81.

At Temple 81 we met five ohenros from Australia/New Zealand. They were fun to chat with and were off by taxi to Temple 82.

Finally, one flower picture for my mom and Auntie Laura. Saw allot of flowers like morning glories and ones I have already taken photos of. 

It is starting to get cooler in the afternoon and early morning. Hopefully the rain will hold off til we finish. Planning to do three Temples tomorrow.

Sunday, October 30, 2016 – Temple 72 (Mandaraji), Temple 73 (Shusshakaji), Temple 74 (Koyamaji), Temple 75 (Zentsuji) & Temple 76 (Konzoji)

The morning started with a beautiful walk thru a bamboo forrest. It was around 10 degrees celcuis, but sunny.

Along the way, there was an abandoned car taken over by mother nature.

We ended up visiting Temple 33 first. They had some nice statues, which I had to take some pictures of. We met up with an ohenro friend from Tokyo.

There were also some more foot print statues, which I thought I would take a photo for Andre so he could continue his research.

There were also some more of the wind catchers made from tin cans.

At Temple 72, there was a nice older ohenro couple, with their son who was helping them get up the stairs and light their candle and incense. I gave them each one of my ohenro crests I had made up.

At the Temple they had a lovely flower arrangement. It looked like the flowers were growing like bonsai’s.

Here are a few more pictures of Temple 72.

On the way to Temple 74 we passed by a field with lots of eggplants growing.

At Temple 74 there you can make a donation and write the name of someone on small ohenro statues. 

We then decided to take a detour and go to Joyfull restaurant for lunch, since Bob has never been to. We then visited Temple 76 which was close by.

Our last temple was 75, which is where we are staying for the evening. They had all 500 of the statues the same as the ones at Unpenji. Here are some of the photos.

Tomorrow will be an early start with the morning ceremony at 6 am followed by breakfast. We are hoping to do maybe five temples tomorrow.

Saturday, October 29, 2016 – Temple 68 (Jinnein), Temple 69 (Kanonji), Temple 70 (Motoyamaji) & Temple 71 (Iyadaniji)

Had a lovely visit with a praying mantis today. More later on. The day started out sunny with a few clouds. Good weather for walking. However, as the day progressed it got cloudier, and darker clouds rolled in. Thought for sure it was going to rain but never did.

The buffet breakfast at the kanpo was excellent. Temple 68 and 69 are side by side each other. Here is a picture of the gate.

We continued onto Temple 70. We decided to take the quieter path along the river. An older man biking with his small maltese dog in the front carrier, asked where we were from. He ended up walking his bike and talking English with us. He explained about the temples, where there were two waterfalls and about some of the local history. He wanted to make sure we didn’t get lost and came with us to the bridge that we had to cross to get to Temple 70 and then bid his farewells.

Temple 70 has a nice 5 level pagoda, however, it was being restored, so was surrounded with construction tarps.

Here are some of the photos of statues at the temple and the incense urn, where you put the three incense sticks you light.

On the way to Temple 71 we stopped at the outdoor foot bath. The cold water felt good on our hot feet.

As we sat soaking our feet, a praying mantis came to join us. He walked up the side and along the edge of the footbath, then right up my pant leg ( as I sat there). When he started up my shirt, I decided to bid him farewell. He sure was a friendly guy. Here are some of the pictures.

On the climb up the stairs to Temple 71, there was a nice statue. 

At the temple they had on display one of the huge bells that hang in the bell tower you ring when you arrive at the temple.

There was also a statue of Kobo Daish and two level pagoda.

It was funny I ran into ohenros I met during my last Shikoku pilgrimage. They were driving the pilgrimage this time in the reverse order. We talked about the foreigners ohenros they met last time, Dara, Danielle, and many others. It was like old home week.

One last picture of the Furnei Park onsen we are staying at tonight.

Again a wonderful day on the pilgrimage where I got to meet a praying mantis.

Friday, October 28, 2016 – Temple 66 (Unpenji) & Temple 67 (Daikoji)

I always enjoy my stay at minshuku Okada. The owner is so friendly and took me into the dining area to show me the plaque I sent him after my first visit. He loves to host ohenros and at the supper meal gives an explanation with pictures on the right path to Temple 66.

I asked how old he was at supper and he said he was 88. I thought “wow”, he was doing great for 88. He reminded me of my dad, with his gentle and friendly disposition.

 You can tell he truly loved his job of running the minshuku. He always greets you with a smile and at supper and breakfast he serves you rice from the end of the table wearing his apron.

His walls are covered with pictures ohenros sent him. He has a scrapbook of all the name slips people give him. He was able to find the two I gave him from my previous stays.

Here is a picture we took with him after breakfast and of him serving rice.

Since rain was in the forecast we headed out right after breakfast around 6:45 am. The owner and his daughter came out to the road to give us a send off.

It was a hard climb to Temple 66, which is 900 meters high (the highest Temple of the pilgrimage). Along the way there were small statues to mark the trail.

We made it to top in two hours.The rain held off til after we arrived. Here are some photos.

On the pathway down the mountain there were many statues with funny faces and stances. Here is the one Bob picked for himself.

Here are a couple I liked.

They used to line the ohenro pathway down the mountain, however, they have all been moved and grouped closer to the start of the path.

On the way down it rained pretty steady, which made it slippery with the wet leaves. So we had to walk carefully, step by step.

Didn’t get to take many photos because of the rain. I was able to take one of a bush I found interesting with a red type berry on it.

Here are some photos of Temple 67, which has a huge camphor tree believed to be planted by Kobo Daishi.

Hopefully, the weather will be better tomorrow. The plan is to visit the next four temples.

Thursday, October 27, 2016 – Temple 65 (Sankakuji)

Today was a day of osettai. Last night I was able to meet with friends I met during my last ohenro pilgrimage. I stayed at their temple in Fukui. We went to a nice Japanese restaurant and was presented with osettai, a bag of candy, tissue holders and some matcha (powder green tea). What a wonderful gesture they remembered I like matcha green tea. As well, they gave me a picture of the scroll I had made as osettai that is hanging in their temple.

It has all of the 88 temple 1200 year anniversary slips that I collected from my last two pilgrimages. We met for breakfast and took a photo with Bob outside the hotel before we headed off for Temple 65.

It was very nice to see them again and I hope they get to visit me in Canada someday. 

At the hotel we were able to wash all our sweaty clothes from our 2 day climb of Mt Ishizuchi. It is nice the hotels and minshuku have laundry machines.

While at Temple 65, we met a couple from British Columbia. What a small world. I had a nice chat with them. 

Here are some of the rest of my Temple 65 photos.

On the way to Temple 66, we saw a couple trimming weeds. We said our normal “Ohio gozaimasu” – good morning greeting in Japanese as we walked by. Then we heard them yell ohenro-san and called us to come for a drink. We went back and they gave us a couple drink containers and could speak some English. Bob gave them each a Canadian flag pin. What another wonderful gesture of osettai.

As we walk along the country road we passed some beautiful Japanese gardens and I like how the use pop cans to make wind spinners.

We passed by one of the other 20 temples called bekkaku that are along the pilgrimage route. I stopped and did the heart sutra with a bus group of pilgrims that were there and got my booked stamped. Because we were walking pilgrims she said no charge for the book stamp and gave us each a can of coffee as osettai.

One of my favorite ohenro statues is there, so I had to take another photo of it.

As well I took some of the other statues.

On the way to minshuku Okada we had to walk thru a tunnel, which is always a bit scary, especially with large trucks passing by and you only have a walkway  (sidewalk) the width of your body. The noise of the vehicles is so loud and the air suction as they pass by. I said to Bob just concentrate on one step at a time and we will make it to the other end. It was nice to get out of the tunnel back to peace and quiet.

We stop at my favorite udon restaurant and had tempura udon. At the end, the waiter gave us a small piece of cake and orange slice as osettai. Since there is no tipping in Japan,  we gave him a Canadian flag pin and ohenro crest.

It was a wonderful day of receiving osettai.

The weather was perfect for walking, cloudy with sunny breaks and cool.

Finally a couple flower pictures for my Auntie from today’s walk.

Tomorrow we will do the big climb to Temple 66, a 900 meter climb.

Wednesday, October 26, 2016 – Mt Ishizuchi- Day 2

Last night was a very windy night with the clouds and mist continuously blowing and moving. Sometimes it would clear and you could see the beautiful view and see how high you were.

At 4:30 pm, there was a ceremony where they closed the shrine. We got dressed in our rain gear and went out into the blustery wind and mist. However, once we rounded the corner and climbed up to the shine you were sheltered from the wind. Truly amazing as the wind continued to blow very hard. It was an interesting ceremony with taiko drumming and prayers/chants. We got to see how the shrine is closed up for the evening. Supper was at 5 pm, which was curry rice and yes Masa, I ate it with a spoon like everyone else. 

I was able to hang my wet clothes to dry. I really like the merino wool lightweight pull over as it keeps you warm when wet and dries really fast.

Lights out were at 9 pm, which is when they shut down the generator, as there is no commercial power at the top of the mountain. We stayed in a dorm room. There ended up being the two of us, a group of six (3 men and 3 women) and one other guy. We slept on tatami mats and futons. Bob became a hit when he gave everyone a Canadian flag pin.

In the morning the wind had ended. The generator was started at 5:30 am. The morning service was at 6 am where we go to be part of when the shrine was opened. We were allowed to enter the dhrine and touch the statues. I couldn’t take any pictures of the inside of the shrine. We got to see the morning sunrise around 6:10 am, in between the clouds gently moving around the mountain top.

Here is a picture of the shrine at the top of Mt Ishizuchi and a photo of me.

After breakfast, Bob decided to have a head start down as it takes him longer on the descents. I tried to get some pictures of the view from the top with the clouds moving in and out.

On my way down, I could hear a person calling out “hello”. It was Bob who had taken the chain route by mistake and was stuck. Lucky he was able to use the chains to climb back up and take the non-chain route with me. The chains are huge, but I would need allot of practice to try to maneuver and climb up or down a rock face using them.

Yuki who shared the dorm with us caught up with us and walked down with us. He was a baker and gave us some of his wonderful baked goods. On the way to the ropeway he asked our plans for the day. We said we were going to try and catch the 12:02 pm bus to Saijo City and then take train to Iyo-Mishima where we were staying in a hotel. He offered to drive us since he was going that way. We decided to take time and have a nice onsen bath (since the place on top of Mt Ishizuchi didn’t have bath facilities). It was nice to get cleaned up from our sweaty climbs the last two days.

It was so nice to be offered a ride. This is one of the magical parts of the Shikoku pilgrimage, the wonderful people you meet and offer to help.

Finally a last couple photos of the views on the way down and a group of between 50 to 100 people dressed in white and chanting and blowing the sea shell horn as they climbed Mt Ishizuchi.

They were of all ages and was impressed to see this little old lady who was part of the group.

Tomorrow we continue on with the pilgrimage and visit Temple 65.

Tuesday, October 25, 2016 – Mt. Ishizuchi

Mt Ishizuchi is the highest mountain in western Japan at 1,982 meters. I am posting this post from the top of Mt Ishizuchi.

Woke to the sound of wind and what I thought was rain. Instead at breakfast we asked the owner if it was OK to hike up and he said yes. Here is photos of the sign up top showing we were at 1,982 meters high.

Last night at dinner he showed us videos where he makes shell horns which are used in a ceremony (like matsuri) where they climb Mt Ishizuchi blowing the horn.

He is on the poster for Mt Ishizuchi with his shell horn.

Here are some of the photos of his shell horns he makes.

We started our hike by visiting the shine near where we were staying.

They have a huge carving with face with big nose.

The hike up was very hard and difficult to say the least. The wind came up and it just chilled you to the bone. Here is a map of the route, which the ticket seller at the ropeway gave me an English version.

The trees have started to change colors, but was hard to see with all the fog and mist. I tried to take a couple of photos.

On the way up there is an option to climb the rock face using huge chains to hang on to. We opted for the longer around the chains route.

At the top of the mountain I got to say a prayer at the shrine and got my book stamped. The monk stamping the book mentioned his friend posted a picture he took of us on his Facebook page. He showed us and we laughed and said it was indeed us.

We found the Chojo-sanso Lodge where we were staying. We were able to check in around 12 noon and get changed into dry clothes and have a nice bite to eat. I was surprised when the young cook came out and gave us each a snack as osettai. The Shikoku pilgrimage follows you everywhere.

It was a hard climb but a good day even though you couldn’t see much of a view because of being in the clouds. One last picture of a wall hanging that was in my room last night and a poster of what the mountain looks like in the fall.

Tomorrow we will take our time hiking down, take the ropeway back down and catch a bus to the train station, where we will take the train to the hotel where we are staying.

Monday, October 24, 2016 – Temple 60 (Yokomineji)

Today we had a beautiful day for the climb up to Temple 60 which is 740 meters up. It was sunny and a bit cool for climbing.

I didn’t take many photos. On the hike along the road, I passed many nice flower gardens again.

As we walked along the road, there was a huge distribution centre for vending machines, which are everywhere and great to get something to drink when you need it.

Most of the walk was along a pave country road until the last part, which was a hike up a trail and a hard climb. Even though it was a steady climb, I was able to take a couple photos along the trail.

When I arrived at the temple I was soaked. I found a sunny place to try to dry some of my things as it was very cool at the temple when out of the sunlight.

There were a couple of bus groups that arrived at the temple. I joined in with one group to chant the heart sutra. Afterwards one man came over and said he was impressed with me joining them in the heart sutra. Here are a couple photos of the temple and the bus groups.

There were some nice pink flowers growing from the temple retaining wall and in front of the washing station.

Since we are planning on climbing Mount Ishizuchi, we decided to take a different trail down the other side towards Mt Ishizuchi. I asked for directions at the temple. The lady showed me a gate we had to climb to. Here is a picture of the gate where you can see Mt Ishizuchi.

All of a sudden a Japanese man with camera appeared and wanted to take our picture. We asked if this was the trail to Mt Ishizuchi and he said henro -korogashi, which means hard and difficult trail. We said we had to give it a try as we had no other option.

The trail down wasn’t too bad. It was washed out in one place where a bridge was missing and you had to climb down to cross the river. The hike along the river with falls was breathtaking and I was very tempted to go for a dip in the clear cold water.

We really weren’t sure if we were on the right trail. However, there were the same red and blue signs, that we saw on the way up. The only difference was on the way up they had the name of the temple written in alphabet and on the way down it was in Japanese.

When we reach the end of the blue direction it ended on a paved road, which we were expecting. A bit further on the paved road we found a sign saying Ishizuchi Ropeway, which is where we wanted to go.

After a hard 4 km climb we reached the ropeway and checked out the bus schedule for when we go to the closest train station in two days time. We took the ropeway up to 1300 meters and then had another climb trying to find the Tamaya Ryokan at 1450 meters high. Finally we found it and it was nice to check in, have a cup of tea, a hot bath and nice dinner.

It was a long hard day, but we were happy to have make it and have a place to sleep. Tomorrow we will continue the climb to the top,  which is 1982 meters where we will stay for the evening.

Sunday, October 23, 2016 – Temple 57 (Eifukuji), Temple 58 (Senyuji), Temple 59 (Kokubunji), Temple 64 (Maegamiji), Temple 63 (Kichijoji), Temple 62 (Hojuji),  Temple 61 (Koonji)

Today, we are doing the temples in a different order. The reason is to do Temple 60, which is a big climb and on the way to Mount Ishizuchi (tallest mountain in Shikoku) for a separate day.
I forgot to mention in my blog a couple days ago, that all of a sudden on my phone (which is using a Japan data SIMM card) all of a sudden I received this earthquake warning in English and Japanese. We couldn’t feel anything. Bob, thought he could feel the bench we were sitting on swaying a bit. Later that evening at the Sen Guesthouse the owner asked if we felt the earthquake. We knew then it was for real.

The day ended up being cloudy all day with some dark looking rain clouds. I had the rain gear at the ready. However, never had to use it. It was cool in the mountains.

We started early at Temple 57. Only took a few photos.

There was a wonderful view of Imabari city on the way to Temple 58.

Here are some of the Temple photos.

I really liked the statues in the gate of Temple 58, whch are to protect from evil spirits.

On the way to Temple 59, we passed a bonsai growing farm. I asked if I could take a picture and was invited in to see their wonderful bonsai display and served a wonderful cup of tea. They said they have entered some of their bonsai in the world bonsai completion. It was one of the highlights of the day.

They were absolutely beautiful and Bob wanted to take one home with him.

Temple 59 had a statue of Kobo Daishi where you could shake his hand and the seven gods of fortune statues.

It had an interesting water fountain.

We took the train to Temple 65 and worked back to Temple 61.

Here are some of Temple 65 photos.

It had an interesting statue of Fuda Myoo which was reddish color with the water running over it.

On the way to Temple 63 there was a garden with a cute dog statue I couldn’t resist to take photo of.

At Temple 63, there is a rock with a hole in it. It is said if you can walk from the main hall with your eyes closed while saying your wish and putting your walking stick through the hole that your prayer will come true.

Temple 63 had an interesting washing station dragon.

Temple 61 is a very modern huge building.

However, you could remove your shoes and go in and sit. There was a huge Dainichi Nyorai Buddha (which is my Buddha) and a statue of Kobo Daishi holding a baby in his arms.

Finally one last photo for Liz of a sample of the stamp that is placed in your pilgrim stamp book (nokyucho) which acts as proof that you have visited each temple.

Tomorrow we will do the big climb to Temple 60.

Saturday, October 22, 2016 – Temple 52(Taisanji), Temple 53(Enmyoji), Temple 54(Enmeji), Temple 55(Nankoko), Temple 56(Taisanji)

Today was a good test of our rain gear. It pretty well rained steady all day. It was a bit of a pain to take off our wet gear at the temples and try to do some semblance of the temple routine.

Needless to say, it was difficult to take pictures with all of the rain. Here are some of the the pictures from Temple 52.

There was a wheel in front of the main temple that you could spin, which I suspect had the heart sutra on it.

We then hiked to Temple 53 in the rain. It was a slog and we sometimes got splashed by the large trucks hitting the puddles as they drove by. It sure makes you appreciate the nice days.

I was able to take a few pictures of Temple 53, while taking shelter under buildings. They are not the best pictures.

We then headed to the train station to take the train to close to Temple 54. Here are some photos from the train station of the schedule and how to board and exit the train, since didn’t have the chance to take any flower pictures.

At least it was dry in the station to take some pictures.

At Temple 56 it was still raining. The Temple monk who was doing the calligraphy in the stamp book had a small white poodle sleeping next to him. It made me think of how Hanako and Chibi (my Yorkies) are doing back home.

Here are some of the other  photos I was able to take from Temple 56 while taking shelter from the rain.

The series of cups hanging is the rain downspout. The water is channelled from cup to cup, til it hits the ground. It works well in controlling the water from the roof.

On the way to Temple 55 (which was close to the hotel we are staying at) I passed more Halloween decorations and was able to duck under a roof to get a photo.

When we got to Temple 55, the rain started to let up finally. Here are some of my photos from the temple.

At the main gate they had some interesting statues.

Sorry, didn’t get to take any flower photos because of the rain. As usual there were lots of flowers and beautiful Japanese gardens along the way.  So I thought I would include one of the beautiful sakura (cherry blossom) photos from my last pilgrimage.

Hopefully, tomorrow the rain will let up. Glad we are staying in a hotel tonight, so can use the washer & dryer to wash clothes and electric hair blower to dry my shoes and gear, for the next big rain test.

Friday, October 21, 2016 – Temple 46 (Joruriji), Temple 47 (Yasakaji), Temple 48 (Sairinji), Temple 49 (Jodoji), Temple 50 (Hantaji) & Temple 51 (Ishiteji)

Lots of temples today. It was s great day for walking, cloudy and cool. We decided to take the bus from Kuma-kogen town to the Shiogamori bus stop and walk down the Shiogamori pass to Temple 46. Worked out the walk down was great on a narrow paved country road with switchbacks. It was much easier on the legs.

Here are some of the photos from Temple 46.

Along the way to Temple 47, we passed many orange trees and so many morning glories in full bloom.

Here are some photos of Temple 47.

There was a very friendly cat that came and joined us.

The temples were fairly close together. Here are the pictures from Temple 48.

I liked the washing station and cauldron for the incense.

On the way to Temple 49 passed some interesting statues and flowers.

A few more photos of the remaining temples.

There were also a few statues of the seven fortune gods.

When we arrived in Matsuyama we passed the Dogo Onsen, the oldest onsen in Japan.

On a side note, we passed this cute little orange car.

Hard to believe we are now in the fifty temples.

Rain is in the forecast for tomorrow. We will see how it goes.

Thursday, October 20, 2016 – Temple 44 (Daihoji) & Temple 45 (Iwayaji)

Today was a perfect day for walking. It was cloudy and cool. We took the train from Uchiko to Matsuyama, and then bus to Kuma-kogen town.

Here are some photos of the Takahashi Residence we stayed last night. 

The rooms were traditional Japanese style and we had the use of the entire house.

On the way to the train station there was a beautiful rice field with wonderful fall color and heavy laden with rice ready to be harvested.

We went to Temple 45 first and it was quite the hike up the many stairs. I was amazed to see an ohenro who must have been in her 80’s climbing the stairs that made me huff and puff. She reminded me of my mom and Auntie Laura who are in their 80’s.

As I took her photo she smiled. I ran into her later at Temple 44. I said hi and said I was impressed with her being able to climb the stairs. I gave her a Canadian flag pin and ohenro crest I had made. I couldn’t believe it when she gave me 2000 yen as osettai. I said no “too much” at first, but she insisted.

Temple 45 has a ladder up to a cave. I tried climbing up to the cave but decided not to risk it and fall, so thought a photo will have to to do.

Here is another photo showing more caves in the side of the mountain.

On the way down I stopped to take some photos of the many statues that I really liked.

At Temple 44 I really liked the sign above the Kobo Daishi Hall and the many statues as well.

A very good day, weather wise and we were able to make the right train/bus connections. We met foreigner ohenros from the USA and Australia and had a nice chat with them.

Tomorrow we plan to walk back to Matsuyama visiting six temples (46 to 51), so will be a long walking day.

Finally, I was able to take a couple flower photos for Auntie Laura, hoping her physio therapy is going well and for my mom, who I hope her hip replacement healing is going well.

Wednesday, October 19, 2016 – Temple 41 (Ryukoji), Temple 42 (Butsumokuji) & Temple 43 (Meisekiji)

The theme for the day was getting lost on the pilgrimage.

First, let me start, on how the start of the day went. We were up early to catch the 6:04 am train to Muden. Our plan was to make sure we made it to Uchiko by 4 pm, in time to check into the Takahashi Residence, which is an antique Japanese house, connected with the Takahashi Museum.

Here are some photos of a collection of ohenro statues at Temple 41 and a picture of the inside of the train, where it was a special train honouring the train museum which had cases with different models of Japanese trains.

It was cloudy all day, which made it good for walking. There were some low clouds, which we thought might turn to rain, but never happened.

We walked by some beautiful colorful fields and was amazed with the flowers. Lots of morning glories and this one pink flowering plant, growing by itself along side the road wild.

Just as we reached Temple 41, there was this huge bonsai tree with a huge branch from the tree on the right side all the way to the entranceway. They were training it to go over the entrance. See if you can see where it starts.

Here are some photos of Temple 41.

There were statues of the seven lucky gods or seven gods of fortune that I like.

Here is link that explains more about them:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seven_Lucky_Gods
On the way to Temple 42 we walked by many fields of cosmos again. They were everywhere. It reminded me of Robin Williams movie  “What Dreams May Come” where he died in a car crashed and then found himself in a field of beautiful flowers in his afterlife. The cosmos were everywhere and I wondered if I had died and was in my field of dreams.

It was interesting to see the school children on their way to school walking in formation. One student in front had a flag and when they reached the crosswalk everyone stopped. He then raised his flag and blew a whistle. Everyone raised their arm and they crossed the street.

Here are some pictures from Temple 42.

At the temples you light three incense sticks to represent the past, present and future and place it in the incense caldron.

At Temple 42, there were more statues of the seven lucky gods, which I like.

Finally, a few last photos of some statues I liked.

So far, things were going good as we headed for Temple 43 and then onto catch the train to Uchiko.

There was a mountain climb and a tunnel to go thru. Since Bob, is a bit slower going downhill, I went ahead and thought we would meet at the next rest stop. I arrived at the rest stop and waited about one hour and NO Bob. I decided to hike back up the road to the path to see if Bob had injured himself. Still NO Bob where the trail down meets the road. I thought he could only go up (right) or down (left) when he hit the road. I waved down a truck driver and asked if he saw a gaigen (foreigner) ohenro walking up the road. He said no. I hiked back up the trail thinking Bob had fallen and hurt himself calling out his name. When I reached the top and NO Bob, I thought he must have disappeared. I hiked back down, checking the side banks to make sure he hadn’t tumbled down the side of a steep bank and was unconscious. Still NO Bob. I walked down the road back to the rest stop and still NO Bob. I thought he must really be lost. I decided to send him a LINE app text message that I was going onto the Temple and would meet him at the accommodations. Just as I was about to leave I heard Bob calling my name. Yes, he had made a left turn on the road, instead of continuing on the road, which lead to another trail up the mountain. After he figured he had gone the wrong way, he decided to go back to the point where he was sure it was right. 

I told him getting lost on the pilgrimage was part of the experience, dealing with ones feelings and being able to clear ones mind to think of what to do. I got lost a few times my first time.

Since we were behind schedule we heading off to Temple 43 as fast as we could. Along the way we past a school where the children were doing a survey about ohenro. I used my English to Japanese translator app on my phone to translate my answers and try to spend some time helping them with their survey.

Well needless to say we made it to Temple 43 and made it to our accommodations by 3:30 pm by taking a limited express train to Uchiko. All ended well.

Here are some pictures of Temple 43.

Finally some final photos of some statues we saw along the walk to Temple 43.

Tomorrow will be a train and bus ride before we do the big climb to Temple 45. Tomorrow will mark the halfway point in the pilgrimage.

Tuesday, October 18, 2016 – Temple 39 (Enkoji ) & Temple 40 ( Kanjizaiji)

Today we had an early start, so we could catch the 7:10 am bus back to Nakamura. This will cut off 3 to 4 days of walking, since we don’t have enough time to walk all of the 1200 km.

Before heading out on the bus, I was able to take a few more pictures of the beautiful rock park which has our lodging building in the background, as well as, some more of the Temple 38 statues.

They had a corgi dog at the Temple lodging who was outside and saw us off in the morning. Her name was Mimi and reminded me of Cecil (a friends dog). When I gave the manager a Canadian flag pin last night, she mentioned her daughter was living in Vancouver. Small world.

When we arrived at Nakamura we took a train to the closest train station to Temple 39. The trains are nicely decorated.

The weather turned out nice for walking. It got a bit warm in the early afternoon. Here are some of the photos from Temple 40.

Finally, one last photo of the colorful strings of peace cranes at the Temple.

Sorry, didn’t take too many photos today.

Today, we entered into Ehime Perfecture (province) which is the “Place of Enlightenment”, the third phase of the pilgrimage. I told Bob, he must have past the Ascetic Training phase, as he is doing well figuring out how to use the trains and buses, as well as, finding the kind of coffee he likes in the vending machines.

Tomorrow will be a busy walking day where we are planning to do three more temples.

Monday, October 17, 2016 – Temple 38 (Kongofukuji)

What a difference a day makes. It poured rain in buckets all night, by the sound outside my window. I thought today would be another rainy day. We planned a kind of rest day with taking the train and bus to Cape Ashizuri, the southern most tip of Shikoku.

To my surprise, the clouds were gone and there was blue sky at dawn.

We went to the morning prayer service, followed by breakfast. 

At the Nakamura train station there was a picture map of the places to see in the area

The trains sometimes are very colourful. I tried to take a picture of the side of the train we took to Nakamura, the best I could.

A picture of our wonderful breakfast this morning. I must say the food has been superb. 

Temple 38 is a beautiful temple with beautiful walkways and statues. At the entrance there is a large statue of a turtle.

Here are some pictures of the Temple buildings, statues and washing station.

On the way into the temple, in the gate there were granite tiles where you could write your name and message, for 1000 yen. We decided to do one in honour of our parents.

So our names will be forever enshrined at Temple 38.

We then took a walk to see the lighthouse. The views were exceptional with the sea waves hitting the rocks. At the start of the path we saw this sign, which we thought said beware of wild boars in the area.

The cliffs were amazing.

We stayed at Temple 38 lodging and as usual the food was great.

Tomorrow we will make our way back to Nakamura by bus and continue our walking to Temple 39 and 40.

One last photo of the huge sceptre outside of the Kobo Daishi temple 38 building. The story is while Kobo Daishi was in China he threw a sceptre into the ocean. He supposedly found the sceptre lodge into a tree, which determined where a Temple should be built. Many Temples have replicas of the sceptre and you can see statues where Kobo Daishi is holding one in his hand.

Thanks everyone for reading my blog and please forgive any typo mistakes. It is hard after a long day to focus my eyes on doing my blog entry. So I am trying my best, one day at a time. It is like when I tell Bob, don’t look up at all the steps you have to climb to get to the temple. Just concentrate on taking the next step. By concentrating on one step a time we will make it to the top.

Sunday, October 16, 2016 – Temple 37 (Iwamotoji)

Once again saw a wonderful sunrise from the Kokumin-shukusha Tosa hotel where we stayed at last night. It was nestled up in the mountains and had a beautiful view of the sea. I enjoy the sound of the waves of the ocean. So peaceful.

Here is a picture of the hotel at the top of the mountain.

Next to it was another hotel which reminded me of Greece.

The food has been great. I enjoyed the Japanese breakfast. Not always sure what it is, but it is very tasty. Even Bob has been enjoying the Japanese cuisine.

The plan was to take a ferry boat from Umetate to Uranouchi to reduce our walking distance. When we asked, the hotel manager who spoke excellent English, said it didn’t run on Sunday. We asked about a taxi and he suggested we take the bus that leaves about a 30 minute walk from the hotel at 8:12 am. The bus would take us to a train station and we could take the train and walk from there.

On the way to the bus stop we passed a small sheltered harbour created for the fishermen.

Here is a photo of the sign next to the bus stop with a statue of Kobo Daishi.There are lots of statues of Kobo Daishi who established the Temples on Shikoku and of which the pilgrimage follows his path.

When we got off the train it started to rain, then poured. Sometimes very heavy. As I write this blog it is still raining heavy. We were soaked when we checked into Temple 37 where we were staying. Just glad they have a washer and dryer we can used to wash and dry our clothes. 

So I didn’t take many photos. Here is one of the Temple from the where we are staying, so as not to get my phone wet.

At Temple 37 one of the ceiling panels painted by the local people is of Marilyn Monroe. She is following me on the pilgrimage it seems.

I took some photos of the Temple in the accommodations building where we will have our morning service at 6 am.

I was surprised when I went to get my book stamped that the nun was wearing the Canadian flag pin I gave her last time. I asked if she remembered me and she did.

Hopefully the rain will let up for tomorrow. Here are some last photos I took of my room I am staying at the Temple since I couldn’t take many around the temple because of the rain.

The supper meal was wonderful. I enjoyed it very much.

Saturday, October 15, 2016 – Temple 34 (Tanemaji ), Temple 35 (Kiyotakiji ) & Temple 36 (Shoryuji).

The day started off with another beautiful sunrise as the fishermen head out to fish for the day.

Since the bath (ofuro) was open at 5:30 am I thought I would go down for a quick shower. Usually the bath is only open at night. So I head into the same bath area as the night before. There was one other man there. All of a sudden a naked woman appeared with her towel wrapped around her. After some discussion in Japanese, I was given the sign we were in the wrong bath area. Appears they switched the male and female curtains, so we were in the one that was designated as female last night this morning. I know it sounds confusing. It always proves to make sure you go in the right color curtain, blue for men, red for women.

We headed out around 7:30 am for Temple 34. When we got to Temple 34 a big bus tour group arrived and I joined them in the Heart Sutra. Here are some of the pictures I took.

There was a row of statues with a beautiful red flowers growing alongside.

I really liked one of the nicely groomed Japanese trees at the Temple.

On the way to Temple 35 we passed many farmer fields. It was interesting to watch the farmers tilling the fields getting them ready for the winter.

On a previous day walk we saw this tall plant with yellow flowers. I wondered why farmers would be growing flowers. Then while waiting to see the weather on TV, there was a program showing farmers taking their crops to market and they showed these tall plants as growing okra. Since we came across the plant I thought I would check it out. Here is a picture. See if you can see the okra growing beneath the flower.

Interesting amongst the farmer fields  and greenhouses there were high tech solar panels installed.  Modern technology meet old farming technology.

Then there were the balconies with futons and clothes being aired out. Many Japanese use clotheslines to dry their clothes.

Here are some Temple 35 pictures with a view of Tosa City.

On the way down from Temple 35 there were trees with some kind of fruit on them. They were the size of grapefruit but when I felt one it was hard like an apple. So not sure what fruit it was.

Finally here are some pictures of Temple 36, the final Temple we visited today.

Of course there were lots of stairs to climb. Kobo Daisho loved being in the mountains.

We headed off for our hotel which has a wonderful view of the sea.

It was a warm and sunny afternoon. I stopped to get some sunscreen at a department store as my face and nose is getting sunburned. My Google translator app works great on my smartphone. When I showed the translation for sunscreen the store clerk understood and showed me where it was.

Had another great day walking. Feet and legs are holding up.

Friday, October 14, 2016 – Temple 31 (Chikurinji), Temple 32 (Zenjibuji) & Temple 33 (Sekkeiji)

The day turned out a great for walking. Cloudy and cool. We had a nice breakfast at the hotel at 7 am. So far the bookings Masa made for us are working out well. Thank you Masa for all your hard work in making the booking phone calls.

On the way to Temple 31 we walked thru a botanical garden. Most of the flowers were gone.

Temple 31 was close to the botanical garden. It had a beautiful pagoda.

I got a chuckle from the plaque about the temple good luck fortune cat.

When I went to do my Temple routine, there was a monk at the main temple saying morning prayers, which I found magical the way he was singing the mantras.

Here are a couple pictures of some of the statues.

Ever since I started walking there are these persimmon trees everywhere.We were served some as dessert at a couple places we stayed and they are so tasty. Here are a couple photos of the trees just full of them.

On the way up to Temple 32 we walked thru a beautiful bamboo forrest.

At Temple 32 we met two ohenros from Brazil. I had a nice chat with them.

Here are some of my pictures from Temple 32.

On the way to Temple 33, instead of walking on a high bridge, we took the free ferry. It is interesting that the Japanese are celebrating Halloween. I saw one home with the windows full of Halloween pumpkins. At the ferry waiting area there was a little Halloween display. It was very cute.

Here are some of my pictures from Temple 33. There was a farmer set up selling some of his crops behind the washing station.

So far my feet and legs are doing good. No blisters. My legs are sore at the end of the day and stiff in the morning, but no injuries so far.

A couple final pictures of the view from the hotel we are stay at this evening.

Today was a 21 km walk and tomorrow is planned to be a 22.5 km walk.

Thanks everyone for checking out my blog.

Thursday, October 13, 2016 – Temple 28 (Dainichiji), Temple 29 (Kokubunji) & Temple 30 (Zenrakuji)

Since it was going to be a long walking day we decided on an early start at 6 am. As we were leaving there was a beautiful sunrise. .

The plan was once we made it to the hotel, Bob would head off to find the closest 7-eleven in Kochi, so he could withdraw his daily visa cash advance, since his debit card was still not working.
On the way to Temple 28, I admired some of the local architecture, like a giraffe on a post to a bridge and an Iris design on a bridge fence railing.

As  we walked along, we came across ACT Land, which was like an amusement park.

There was an interesting sculpture and I even discovered Marilyn Monroe had joined me on my pilgrimage.

When we arrived at Temple 28, I noticed some of the colorful strings of orgami peace cranes hanging in front of the Temple. I thought I would take a few photos to share.

Here is a link that explains the custom:https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/One_thousand_origami_cranes

The leaves are starting to slowly turn color. Here is a tree at Temple 28 that has just started to turn..

And a few last photos of some statues at Temple 28.

There was a beautiful moss garden on the way to the stamp office.

On the way to Remember 29 and 30 I took some photos of flowers along the way. Guess the theme of this pilgrimage will be flowers and statues.

Along the way I came across this single pink lilly growing alongside the road and I had to take a picture.

As we walked thru the many rice fields and farms, we came across a huge greenhouse growing orchids. I thought Masa would be impressed. I tried my best to take a couple pictures.

Here are a few more pictures of some of the statues at Temple 29 & 30 wearing bright color bibs.

As we got close to Temple 29, there was this excited Bob, who saw a 7-eleven sign that was not in the Route Guide book. I swear he was doing the happy dance. He was able to draw his maximum visa cash advance and came out grinning from ear to ear. Now he didn’t need to make a side trip at the end of the day.

At Temple 30 there were lots of bus groups which I like how they all chant together. Some time I just stand behind them and chant along with them the Heart Sutra.

Here is one of the groups I chanted with. There was a little old lady who started to cough and stepped back from the group. I kept an eye on her to make sure she was ok. I went upjb and gave her a candy to see if that would help and a ohenro crest. She was very eased.

Finally a couple more pictures of Temple 30 statues.

As we were leaving this older man came up and gave us a small plastic bag with a 500 yen coin in it and said osettai. He asked where we were from. We said Canada and thanked him with a Canadian flag pin.

Another great day on the ohenro trail. It.was mainly cloudy with sunny breaks. There was a cool breeze which made it just right for walking.

We met a nice ohenro from Tokyo, who had live in Toronto for awhile. She was only going to be doing it for a few days at a time, whenever she could get the time off work.

Tomorrow will be another 20 km + day, so hopefully we can make it ok. So far, so good, no blisters. The one on the side of my heel has disappeared.

Wednesday, October 12, 2016

The plan for the day was to walk about 25 km along the coast and Highway 55. Well, as they say, the best laid plans sometimes go a stray. We decided to head off for the 7 am buffet breakfast at the hotel and then take the train for three stops to cut off 5 km of walking.

Here is a picture of the coast from the hotel restaurant on the 11th floor this morning.

After breakfast we headed for the Aki train station. There was an ohenro from the hotel there as well. I ask the ticket agent which train we should take and it was at 8:11 am from platform 2. When we got there at 8 am, a train had just arrived and our fellow ohenro was getting on the train. Then just as the train left the the station, Bob had a look of shock and said the train is going the wrong way. I didn’t notice and said guess we shouldn’t have followed the other ohenro.

We ended up getting off at the next station and would catch the train back. Needless to say, the next train wasn’t til 9:12 (more than an hour wait). So, I just had to accept my mistake and sit there listening to the sounds of the birds as we were the only two at the station.

When we caught the next train and got back to Aki station, I asked the train driver if this train went to our stop or did we need to change trains. He smiled and pointed this train would go to our stop. We figured we would have to pay an extra 150 yen (about $1.50) on top of what we already paid. When the train fare adjustment lady got on and asked to see our tickets we did our best to explain in sign language and pointing at the route guide we went wrong way one stop. She smiled and when I showed her extra 150 yen we would pay she said no, just use original ticket. She was so nice and friendly. Bob gave her a Canadian flag pin and the smile on her face when we said we were from Canada. As we got off the train we thanked her for her help.

As my friend Theresa says “everything happens for the best”. After we started to walk I said to Bob, maybe a wrong train mishaps happened for the best. We talked about how our incident enabled us to experience the kind hospitality and friendliness of the Japanese. So maybe taking the wrong train was meant to be and  “happened for the best”.

We continued our hike along the coast reflecting on our wonderful experience to date.

I didn’t take any Temple pictures today, as we didn’t visit any. Tomorrow we will visit three Temples. Instead I took some pictures of the flowers along the way.

Along the way I stopped at a little antique shop, which I stopped at before, and took a picture..

As well, there was a shop that sells statues and I took a picture of the two statues that are in either side of the gate to the temple to scare away evil spirits.

Finally, one last picture of the view from my hotel room.

We walked to the Family Mart convenience store to see if they would accept non-Japanese visa credit cards for cash advance and the machine said it does not process non-Japanese cards. We tried a couple banks along the way and they were the same. Poor Bob is stuck with searching for 7 eleven convenience stores as these are the only ATM that will give him cash advances on his visa.

The weather was perfect for walking and it is supposed to be a nice day tomorrow as well.

Tuesday, October 11, 2016 – Temple 27 (Konomineji)

Another wonderful day. Just before breakfast, while I was having my morning tea, there was a beautiful sunrise. It ended up be a nice day with a mix of sun and clouds.

Took a couple pictures at breakfast. The meals were very good. Could eat everything except the baby squid. The first picture is our two friends from Taiwan, followed by a picture of the group.

After breakfast, we hiked back down the mountain to the bus stop.  Just as we were nearer the end of the road from the mountain a very nice lady stopped and gave us some cookies as osettai. What a wonderful way to start the day.

We took the bus to Nahari station and then train to Tanohama station. At the Nahari station we ran into Justine from Montana, USA. She said she had to modify plans because of problems with blisters. From there all three of us hiked up to Temple 27. It was quite the climb. Along the way we could see newly planted rice fields with the latest harvest drying. They say by drying the rice first, makes for a better quality rice. 

At the very end of the climb it was very steep. Here are a few pictures of the Temple, grounds and statues.

We stopped at the small restaurant at the Temple parking lot and had some vegetable udoon. Then we started for our decent, which can be harder on the legs than the climb up.

On the way down, we were invited to rest and have a coffee as osettai. Pretty soon we were joined by two other locals. 

They seem to breed Japanese dogs. When the wife arrived home she let one of the pups out for a drink. Of course I couldn’t miss the opportunity to meet and pat the pup and she soon let another one out. So naturally, I just have to share some pictures of them, since being a dog lover.

I really like the new direction signs that are being installed. They are nice and clear in both Japanese and English.

Along the way, I was amazed by the color of the rice fields. So different from the I saw them the last two times in the spring time.

While we waiting for the train at the train station I noticed there were many greenhouses.

We took the train to Aki town where we are staying in a hotel. We said our quick goodbyes to Justine as she was going farther on for her accommodations. Before checking in I took Bob for a tour of a Japanese drug storm (kind of like Shoppers Drug Mart in Canada). I told him it was always good to see what we could recognize in case he needed a new knee brace or something of a medical nature.

Again another beautiful day on the trail. Looking forward to our walk towards Temple 28 tomorrow.

Monday, October 10, 2016 – Temple 25 (Shinshoji) & Temple 26 (Kongochoji)

What a beautiful day. I slept with my window open instead of using the air con for cooling and heating. I woke up to the sound of the ocean and gentle ocean breeze. There was a beautiful sunrise.

The good thing about the hotel is the bath was open at 6 am, so I could go down for one last soak in the whirlpool with the deep sea water. After breakfast we walked along the coastal path, which takes you along the coastline with the waves beating against the rocks. Then we walked thru small villages with sheltered harbours for the fishing boats.

Along the way there were numerous signs stating how high it was from sea level and where the closest tsunami evacuation safety point was.

Temple 25 had a few stairs you had to climb to get to the main Temple.

In the gate picture above, on the way up the stairs, you could go in and ring the Temple bell to announce your arrival.

There was a beautiful view of the town from the main Temple.

On the way to Temple 26, I came across some flowers, so thought I would snap a picture for Auntie Laura (who is following my blog). Thanks both to you and my mom for following and posting comments. Love you both. Mom, good to hear things are healing well with the hip replacement and you can manage to get to the deck with your walker. You both are in my prayers when I visit the Temples.

On the walk to Temple 26 a car stopped and three ohenros in the car gave us some oranges as osettai. Then at a rest stop, just before you turn up the hill you have to climb, a nice man came and asked us to come in to his restaurant and relax for a coffee as osettai. There was a monk we seen walking along the pilgrimage and he was invited in as well. This is what makes the Shikoku pilgrimage so special. It is the kindness of the people. Reminds me a bit like Nova Scotia.

Here are some pictures from Temple 26.

I really like the new signs some Temple have now showing which is the main temple, Kobo Daishi temple and stamp office. Here is one.

There is no way to get them mixed up with these new signs.

Since we had about an hour before we could check into temple 26 accommodations, I decided to walk an old path thru the woods. At first I almost ran into these huge spider webs with a huge spider in it. See if you can see the spider in the pictures below.

Well just as I rounded a tree to avoid one, I came across a second one blocking the path. I decided to take a short cut around it, but because there might be snakes in the undergrowth, I decided to run a short cut to another path. Well I had a “where is Buddha” moment when I ran smack into another big spider web. My arms went flying. My smartphone went flying. I was worried the big spider was on me and might bite me. So there was almost no blog  entry today. After I calmed myself down and did a search for my smartphone, which was undamaged, I found a stick, which I used to wave in front of me to make sure I didn’t miss one of the cobwebs. Here are some of the pictures I was able to take on my trek.

Along the way I found some huge white mushrooms.

I was a bit afraid of a snake encounter so didn’t venture any future to take pictures.

We were able to check in for our stay at Temple 26. The same old kind lady is still there. She is such a charm to watch as she went with her cart to put a fresh flower in each room.

Here is a picture of the beautiful wood carving at the entry way and a picture of the beautiful view of the coast. 

My room was right behind the wood carving. Temple 26 is a must stay temple on my list.

At supper we were joined by our two ladies from Taiwan. They were planning on camping but were now staying in accommodations and taking the train/bus for longer distances, like us. It was like old home week at during supper.

What a wonderful beautiful day. It was sunny all day with some cool breezes. Hopefully, tomorrow will be the same.

Sunday, October 9, 2016 – Temple 23 (Yakushi) & Temple 24 (Hotsu-misakiji)

I was awaken this morning again by the sound of heavy rainfall. Since the Business Hotel had a fridge I was able to buy my breakfast of yogurt and inari (Japanese tofu pockets) last night. So I had an early breakfast and headed to Temple 23, in the rain around 7 am.  Didn’t take any pictures as it was raining too hard.

We then headed for the train station to take the train to the end of the line. We had to wait another hour and half to catch the bus to Cape Muroto which we didn’t mind as today was a rest day. This allowed us to travel 90 km in one day verses taking three days.

The hotel we are staying at allowed us to drop off our bags when we arrived early. We then headed to climb up the mountain to Temple 24.in the rain. Here are some photos of the Temple I took in the rain.


At the Temple there was a large rock that when you hit it with a stone it sounded very hollow.

On the way back down we stopped to have a look at one of the caves where Kobo Daishi might have stayed..

We then headed for the Deep Sea World pool, where they harvest the saltwater from deep below the ocean and have all these massage jets, which helped sooth some of the sore muscles. We had a nice lunch there. 

We then walked back to the hotel and checked in. We have rooms facing the ocean. Here are a couple photos. The soothing sounds of the waves reminded me of Nova Scotia.

We had a wonderful Japanese style supper with lots of good things to eat.

Another early night. Have a habit of going to sleep early and getting up early..

Saturday, October 8, 2016 – Temple 22 (Byodoji)

I was awaken early this morning around 4 am by the loud heavy rain. Yes, it was pouring in buckets. Breakfast was at 7 am. Before taking the ropeway back to Tairyuji Temple we walked to Lawson’s to see if Bob could get his debit or credit card to work. Bad news, both didn’t work. Then we went to 7 eleven and he could only get a cash advance on his visa credit card of 30,000 yen ( about $300 CDN), which we think is his cash advance amount per day. So, we will be on the lookout for 7 eleven convenience stores so Bob doesn’t have to beg for alms from a rice bowl.

The heavy rain had let up by the time we walked back to the onsen where we stayed, picked up our bags and took the ropeway to the top.

We started our way on the old henro trail and started to climb. I said to Bob, something is wrong, we are suppose to be walking down and under the ropeway. Bob just pointed up at the ropeway wires over head. So we continued on. 

We came to the sitting Kobo Daishi statue. There was a chain to climb the rock face to get to the statue. We didn’t want to try it since everything was wet. Instead here is a picture of Bob with the statue from behind.

The weather turned out  OK with clouds, some light rain and some sun. The walk down the old henro trail was very quiet and peaceful. There were only a couple of places where there were ropes to hang onto from falling. As well, there were lots of statues along the trail.

I lost my umbrella, so had to buy a new one at 7-eleven. Here is a picture of me sporting my new umbrella.

It took us about two hours to hike down. It was so nice to walk next to some of the streams with small waterfalls. We stopped for lunch at a rest hut at the bottom and cooled down our feet. As we got close to Temple 22, there was a beautiful field filled with cosmos blooming.

Here are some of the pictures from Temple 22.

Today Bob was able to answer my question “Where is Buddha?” just as we were completing the Spiritual Awakening phase of the pilgrimage.

Tomorrow we will enter Kochi perfecture (province) which is the Ascetic Training phase of the pilgrimage.

When we got to Hiwasa it was too late to visit Temple 23, so just checked into the Business Hotel (which was booked solid because of the matsui celebration). We went to the Circle K convenience store and picked up a bento box for supper and something for breakfast since the room has a fridge.

I ended the day having a nice bath to soak my aching muscles.

Friday, October 7, 2016 – Temples 20 (Kakurinji) & Temple 21 (Tairyuji)

Today, the highlight was I got to meet Masako from the ohenro Facebook group. We had been emailing back and forth about the old henro trail between Temple 20 & 21.

The day started with early morning tea with Bob and we discussed today’s plan, as well as, how he was doing with finding the answer to my question I posed to him…. “Where is Buddha”. When he tried to answer I told him “Too much thinking” and he needed to try harder.

After a wonderful breakfast, we said our goodbyes to Kelly (from the Netherlands) as she was moving at a faster pace. I told her one of the things I liked about the pilgrimage is people appear, disappear and sometimes reappear. I said who knows she may reappear again during the pilgrimage..

It was a beautiful day on the hike up to Temple 20. On the way up we had a wonderful view of the valley below.

When we were on the final approach to Temple 20 I heard someone call my name. It was Masako who had tracked us down. We chatted for a bit and agreed to meet at the rest hut between Temple 20 and 21. 

I then did my Temple routine. Here are some photos at Temple 20.

On the way down from Temple 20 we ran into Masako who wanted to videotape us and interview us at the rest hut. After we had our lunch, she interviewed our impressions as ohenros.Then she asked if we wanted to do the old henro trail. She offered to drive us to the start from a shrine close to where she lives. Here is a picture of me with Masako before heading out on the old ohenro trail and some while on the trail.

I enjoyed the old henro trail and it was marked very well.

It took us about 2 hours to reach Temple 21, which is what Masako estimated. I like Temple 21 because it reminds me of Koyasan (the final resting place of Kobo Daishi) with all the high trees. On the way to the temple there was my Buddha statue.

Here are some more photos of Temple 21. 

We then took the ropeway down the mountain, since the only accommodations around is at the bottom near the ropeway station. We plan to take it back up and walk down another old henro trail tomorrow. When we went to buy our return ropeway ticket, which is usually 2475 yen, the lady said it would be 1200 yen to foreigners. We just had to show our passports.Bonus deal.

We found our accommodations ok and it was nice to sit in the onsen to relax our aching muscles.

Another great day and thanks Masako for all your help.

Thursday, October 6, 2016 – Temples 14 – 19 (Jorakuji, Kakurinji, Kannonji, Idoji, Onzanji & Tatsueji)

The morning started out wonderful. We thought we were told the morning prayer service was 6 am. Woke up early. Since there were just a thin sliding door between our rooms, Bob asked if “the tea was on” around 4:30 am. So we started our morning tea ritual on talking how the day went and our plans or change of plans for the day due to the weather.

This morning the topic was on spiritual awakening and snakes. A couple days ago Bob encountered a snake on the path as it slivered quickly away. When we saw a dead orange and brown one on the road I said poisonous snake. Bob said “How do you know?”. I said all snakes are guilty (poisonous) until proven innocent in my books since I don’t know. I showed him my Google results of the three poisonous ones – one was brown, one green and one orange with brown stripes.Bob said it was the green one. Today we saw another orange with brown stripe one dead on the road. Just glad he had a close encounter with a car and not us.

As we started to pack to get ready for the 6 am morning service there was a Japanese announcement at 5:30 am ( of which we didn’t understand). There was this look of fear and “what’s going on?” on Bob’s face. I said, just grab your stuff and let head for the temple. The good thing is there are inside walkways to the Temple main hall. The temple door was open, the candles were lit, but only us showed up. So we looked around and got a short chair and waited about 15 minutes by ourselves. We spent the time meditating, which I think helped calm Bob down from the sudden change in plans. About 15 minutes later there were gongs to alert people to come. Too late, we were already there.

The morning service was great. The head monk was a lady from Korea. The chanting was so soothing.

After the service, Bob and I lit a candle for Teshin from the Bodhi. Out of the many candles, I asked the head monk which one would be appropriate. There was a group photo afterwards followed immediately by breakfast. The head monk chatted with everyone at breakfast. It was like a family reunion. What a wonderful way to start the day.

We finished our packing and headed out. Bob almost left his walking stick (which we call Kobo Daishi) as it represents the two of us walking together – you and Kobo Daishi. Lucky we hadn’t left the temple yet. The temple lady who was cleaning the insense holder got a chuckle out of these two foreigners trying to get our act together to leave.

Ok, enough writing, time for some photos. Today we visited six Temples, so here are some of the photos highlights.

Here is a photo of Temple 14 – Jorakuji, which is built on lava rock. When I was leaving there was a little old man with his daughter taking him around. It reminded me of my father. I gave them both a Canada flag pin and the smile on their faces was priceless.

At Temple 15 – Kokubunji we met this wonderful ohenro from Taiwan. He came up to Bob and asked if his knee was ok (as he was wearing a strap on it). In the picture notice what he is wearing on his feet. Yes, traditional Japanese straw sandles. That’s it. And he plans to do the whole pilgrimage (1200 km) in them. I will never complain about a small blister again. He was a calligrapher and showed us some of his calligraphy he was doing at each temple. He said his English was not good but we must come visit him in Taiwan as his wife speaks better English.

Here is another photo of Temple 15 bell and nicely groomed trees on the left.

At Temple 16 – Kannonji, the stamp lady gave me some red bean and apple treat as osettai. I gave her one of my ohenro crests I had made. I really like the statue next to stamp office.

Here is a picture of Temple 17 – Idoji. At Idoji, there was a small gift shop in front of the main temple. Yeah, I was finally able to buy a new official ohenro shoulder bag to carry my valuables in, since I broke the strap on my waist pouch bag. I am looking forward to transferring stuff to it this evening. I said to Bob, I need to have a fire ceremony at the Temple to burn the old one. It was time to let it go. If I was back in Canada I could maybe fix it, but it served me well during my last pilgrimage, so time to “let it go”.

To save some time we took the train part way to Temple 18 – Onzanji. I liked these statues on the way down the stairs from the main temple at Temple 18.

On the way to Temple 19 – Tatsueji we got to walk thru a bamboo forest. Here is a picture of Bob walking thru the bamboo forest.

We arrived at Temple 19 in time to have a bath and attend the 17:00 hour evening service, which was followed by supper. Here is a picture of the Kobo Daishi statue at Temple 19, who founded Shingon Buddhism in Japan, of which the Shikoku pilgrimage you get to visit 88 of his Temples. There are many more around Japan, and last time I got to stay at one in Fukui, which was a wonderful experience. You can read my previous blog about it.

Tomorrow will be two big climbs to Temple 20 and 21. We are planning an early start. Not sure if our body is ready for two more big climbs. We will let you know….

Wednesday, October 5, 2016 – Temple 13 (Dainichi-ji)

Spiritual Awakening – I am reminded that each perfecture (like a province in Canada) has a place of spiritual training name. There are four and this is the first one called Spiritual Awakening. 

Today ended up be a rainy and sometimes very hard rain day. So I didn’t have time to stop and take many photos. I had to concentrate on always adjusting from rain coat, to poncho to umbrella to determine what worked best for the current rain condition. Sometimes the rain stopped, so as to not sweat, off came the rain gear. A few rain drops, out with the umbrella and as the rain got heavier, out with the rain poncho. One time it was raining so hard it looked like hail bouncing off the pavement, but no it was large rain drops.

So, at 2 am, as I write this blog, since I don’t have pictures to share, I will reflect on my status and Spiritual Awakening thus far.

On the second day my lap bag strap broke just as we were at Temple 11. With the gracious help of duc tape Bob brought from Canada I did my best to repair it. I don’t want to lose my lap bag as it has my passport, money, stampbook, basically my critical stuff in it. On the hard climb to Temple 12 the strap let go and I had to attach it to my day pack. Usually I would leave my day pack on a bench at the Temple entrance and just go with my lap pack (my valuables). If for chance my day pack got stolen I could always replace it, whereas, I need my passport to get home. It has been a pain dealing with the broken lap bag, but hey, not the end of world. I have been looking for a temple with a gift shop to buy a proper ohenro shoulder bag but so far no luck. I know there are some temples that sell them eventually but not sure which ones. This is part of my Spiritual Awakening and maybe Kobo Daishi is telling me, it is time to have a proper pilgrim bag. Until then, I am sure I will survive.

On the feet subject, so far so good. Before the climb to Temple 12, I was gently massaging my feet at the end of the day and low and behold I noticed a bump on the side of my heel. Yep a blister. Didn’t even feel it. I used a needle to drain it and am trying Bob’s duc tape solution to see how it works. After day two, no problem. I don’t even know it is there. Other than that my feet are doing well. I am stopping more and taking my shoes off to cool them down.

On the muscle front, now that is a different story. My calves are very stiff in the morning and my legs. Boy, it takes awhile to get them moving in the morning or to go to the washroom in the middle of the night. Now I know what my mom must have gone thru with her hip replacement. Yes mom, I am thinking about you and hope your healing process is going well.

At my 1 am pee break to the washroom, I was reminded of the Bodhi in New Mexico where I was studying Buddhism under the 100 year old roshi, how we would have to do cleaning as part of our practice. The washroom needed some TLC cleaning. The sink was dirty. The urinal was dirty in the front. I remembered at the Bodhi we had to clean the washrooms every day and they were inspected. If you missed something, well, you just had to do it again til you got it right. So I thought, the cleaning supplies are sitting there, no one is around, why not clean them as a thanks to the temple. If I do it quietly it shouldn’t cause a problem. I remembered Masa telling me when he tried calling to book that they were short staffed at the temple. As I scrubbed away, it reminded me of my times at the Bodhi, since I heard recently that my dear friend Teshin (a nun at the Bodhi)  had passed away. Well, Teshin, here’s to you. Hope I cleaned it to meet your standards.

On our walk to Temple 13, Bob stopped at a post office to try his debit card to get money from the ATM. He has been trying with no luck to get it to work. Talk about spiritual awakening, the thought of running out of cash. I jokingly told him he could take a rice bowl and be a true pilgrim and live off of the alms giving of people like Kobo Daishi did. He didn’t like that option. The small post office had three staff. After several failed attempts, there was a recording in English saying see staff for help. We looked at each other and since the small post office wasn’t busy, we decided to go for it and ask for help. This one staff member called a support number ( we assume) and talked for awhile and had Bob try it several times. After 30 minutes, the verdict was the chip was malfunctioning. At one point the manager came out and asked where we were from. I said Canada, as Bob was in no mood for a conversation. He said he visited Canada, Banff, Niagara falls. I said very nice. I asked if he visited Toronto. He said yes. I said oh, my friend from Toronto. Bob then said yes and talked about Toronto. It helped get Bob’s mind off of the delema he was in. At the end, Bob accepted he was scewed (to say politely) with no way to use his debit card for cash. The manager asked if we wanted a coffee. We politely said no thanks, that we had to be on our way. He said just a minute, and came out with two cold cans of a lime drink as osettai. Since, poor Bob was sweating like a poll cat thru the whole ordeal, we stopped and enjoyed our osettai and it was very tasty. We have been looking for the same thing in the vending machines now.

Later on we tried at 7 eleven and again his debit card failed with an invalid chip message. Finally after two attempts he was able to get a visa cash advance. So, Bob was pleased, he won’t be standing in front of temples with his rice bowl begging for alms. I told him one option is he could borrow the money from me, but my interest rates were very high ( just kidding). So far my debit card has been working fine and demonstrated to Bob how it should work. 

So, I will attach a picture of statues I took earlier but didn’t share yet as I know my Auntie Laura and mom like to see pictures.

Here is a picture of my Auntie and my mom (who are twins), in the hospital after her hip replacement two weeks ago. Hope you are both doing well at 83.

Tuesday, October 4, 2016 – Temple 12

Good news is the typhoon and heavy rain wasn’t going to be effecting us today. Bad news is we didn’t need to use plan B and hunker it down in a hotel in Tokushima, but would do the climb to Temple 12. There was lots of chatter at the ryokan Yoshino about who would be walking. Interesting how the owners took a vested interest in our well being and glad to see we would be all walking on the weather forecast changed.

It was like old home week when leaving Yoshino. We waited outside as everyone took turns putting on their hiking shoes. We were joined by ohenros from Montana, USA and Australia (Kendo was Japanese who was now living in Australia). They stayed at the ohenro hut at the onsen. There was also the Netherlands, California, USA, Spain and of course Bob and I from Canada.

Here is a picture of us heading out and one I took of the wonderful breakfast.

Have acquired a taste for eating fish with their heads on. They are very tasty. You just don’t think about it and go by taste.

As we reached the parking lot near Temple 11 a car started to beep it’s horn and it was the two ladies from Taiwan we met earlier. The international family was growing. 

At the start of the trail to Temple 12 there are 88 shines with the Buddha from each of the 88 Temples. It is a mini 88 Temples. Here is a picture of one and the map.

Bob and I let the younger ohenros lead the way, full of energy and enthusiasm.

Even though the Route Guide says it will take 4-6 hours. It took us 8 hours. My strategy was to rest more this time, so not to be completely exhausted at the temple. When ever I came across a bench or rest area, I said to Bob, someone made the effort to build this for ohenro to use, so I’m using it. At the first shine rest area there is a quaint little statue. I figure it came from the Netherlands with the little extra tulip and wooden shoes added for good luck. No doubt an ohenro lightening there pack.

There is always discussion on how to make ones pack lighter.

At the second shine there was a nice water spout where I filled my empty bottles with water, since I had downed the first three on the first climb.

I was able to soak my small towel in the cold water and scrub some of the sweat from my face and neck. It ended up being a cloudy day with sunny breaks, which made it cooler for walking. If it had been 35 degrees celcuis with high humidity I would never have made it.

We were joined by the Taiwanese ladies. As we sat eating our rice balls for some energy, Bob said the ladies are soaking their feet in a troft. I said you got to be kidding. So off we went like little kids to have our turn to soak our feet in the cold water. There were screams and laughter of I can’t believe I am doing this. But did it feel good.

On the second big climb just as you round the corner there is a huge statue of Kobo Daishi welcoming you to the top.

I liked the moss covered statues, which I found very interesting.

After going thru a small town in the valley we started our third hard climb. Boy was it a killer with slippery rocks and roots. You had to be careful not to fall in your exhausted state. Bob took two small tumbles on the way down one mountain, but lived to talk about it. I told him if he dies I was not humping him down the mountain but would leave him covered in leaves next to one of the ohenro tombstones you see of ohenros who had died along the way. I would send a message to Canada to come get him. I am just joking of course. We laughed and understand how someone could easily fall and perish doing this.
We finally made it to the temple and after re-energizing ourselves with royal milk tea and caloriewise energy snack they were selling in the temple vending machine, we did our routine and got our well-deserved books stamped.

As I was taking a photo of one of the statues the two Taiwanese ladies snuck in the picture. They made it to the top after us. We were leapfrogging each other all the way during the climbs. 

All in all a good tiring day and this statue picture represents how I felt when we arrived at our accommodations after the hike down the mountain.

We were proud to make it and there was much discussion over supper of our experience with our fellow Spanish, Dutch and American ohenros that were staying at Nabaiwa-so.

Monday, October 3, 2016 – Temples 7 to 11.

Day started out with a wonderful breakfast. So far I have been enjoying the food as usual. Here is a picture of the foreigners that stayed at Temple 6 last night (From left to right:Kelly, Boback, Kim and Bob) and our our wonderful meal.

Since breakfast was at 6:30 am we were able to get an early start. I really liked the hand washing station at Temple 7. It was a huge rock. As well, always enjoy the many statues. Here are a few pictures from Temple 7.

As we continued it slowly started to rain and used my umbrella for the most part..At least it was cooler than yesterday but was still muggy.

At Temple 8, I noticed the elaborate Temple roof for the first time and some statues I liked. Maybe statues will be the theme of this pilgrimage. The leaves are changing ever so gently.

As we were preparing to leave Temple 8 a lady warned us of the pending typhoon and to prepare to take shelter. As we started to walk to to Temple 9, we heard ohero-san, ohenro-san. It was the lady who gave us three rice balls covered with red bean as osettai. It was  a little sweet and tasy.

At Temple 9, I liked the statues of the 7 lucky dieties.

On the way to Temple 10  we passed some rice fields where the rice was harvested and hung upside to dry. I always saw it being planted on my last two pilgrimages.

On the way to Temple 10 we left our bags at the scroll shop where I had my scroll made from my last pilgrimage. She said she remembered me -Arnoldo.

We then did the big stair climb. Only 443 stairs. Doesn’t sound like many, but it sure was, especially when you are tired..

We stopped at a wonderful udoon shop for lunch and since it was raining hard now, got to test my poncho.

Made it to Temple 11 around 4:30 pm. Temple 11 has a Buddha that was carved by Kobo Daishi.

We made our way to the minshuku and settled in for the night.

The latest news is maybe the typhoon will miss us. Borrow is supposed to be sunny and clouds in afternoon. Maybe heavy rain on Wednesday. So looks good for our climb to Temple 12 tomorrow.

Sunday, October 2, 2016 – Temples 1-6

First night in Japan, didn’t get much sleep. After checking into the hotel, we took a quick walking tour of Tokushima train station area. Found a 7 eleven and got a bento box for supper to eat back at hotel. 

We ended up catching the 6:40 am train to the Bando station, which is the closest station to Temple 1. Arrived shortly after 7 am and it was about a 20 minute walk to the temple from the train station. Bob was able to try a selection of coffee from the vending machines. I found my Royal Milk Tea. 

We were surprised to find the ohenro store next to Temple 1 open. After buying our walking sticks, stamp book and other stuff we headed to Temple 1 to start the pilgrimage. Here are a couple photos in front of the temple.

After completing the routine at Temple 1 we found a 7 eleven where we brought something for breakfast. Here are some of photos from Temple 2.

We completed up to Temple 6 where we are staying. By the time I reached Temple 6 I was exhausted. The sun was so hot and it was so warm. Felt like 35 degrees. I tried to keep the fluids in me so I wouldn’t get dehydrated. But it was so hot with the sun. As we neared Temple 6 I felt my arm hurting and my watch was so tight. My left wrist and hand were swelling and my fingers were tingling. Not sure if this is early signs of heat exhaustion. I was never so glad to see Temple 6.

Since it was shortly after 4 pm was able to check-in and relax. Met some ohenros from the Netherlands – Kelly, who was doing it the second time. I asked if she knew Elly, from the ohenro Facebook page and she said ‘yes’. What a small world. Also met Boback from USA. We became the four amigos I felt. We gathered our sweaty clothes, did a load of laundry, had a nice relaxing bath, supper followed by the evening ceremony. After the ceremony I was so exhausted I crashed. Woke up at 1 am and wrote this blog. Will attached a few more photos and then try to get more sleep, which I really need to make it thru another day.

Lots of talk about hunkering it down while the typhoon passes. We are discussing our options.

During our walk we came across a man trimming some trees into the wonderful japanese bonsai shape. I found it fascinated to watch him apply his skills to the art form. I stopped to take some photos. Afterwards one of the ladies helpers came running after us and gave us two buns as osettai, which we had for our lunch. The tradition of giving osettai to pilgrims has begun.

Thanks for reading my blog. Hopefully I won’t be too tired to do tomorrow’s blog.

Arrived Tokushima Safe and Sound

After a long 12 hour flight from Toronto to Tokyo Haneda airport and then catching a connecting flight to Tokushima we arrived as planned.

We took a taxi to the business hotel Astoria and was glad they had our reservation. Thank you Masa for making all those booking calls. It is nice to just check in and get rested.

Was able to meet up with David Moreton and give him the osettai I brought from Canada. Since I was planning to ship my first aid kit with small jack knife and scissors, just in case it didn’t pass airport security, I thought I might as well fill the box with stuff from Canada someone might need and can’t get in Japan.

We took a walk to the train station and 7 eleven to get a bento box for supper. We then went back to the hotel to eat it and try to get some sleep.

Sorry didn’t take any pictures to post. Will take some tomorrow when we start to walk. Lots on the TV at the airport when we were waiting about the typhoon coming our way. We will have to see if we want to change plans or have the experience of walking in heavy rain. Will let you know how we make out on this blog.